Carding tutorial for 2022 Beginners 

Carding tutorial for 2022 Beginners

Carding tutorial for 2022

Carding tutorial for 2022


1 How to Succeed in store
2 Bin Selection
3 Digit POS – Code List
4 Responses to declines smart card.
5 Carding in Store

1 – How to Succeed in store

In the store, the art of using counterfeit credit cards to obtain profit from mercadoriaa Store. This article is for education only to make knowledge and higher earnings.

/ Tips and Tricks /

First things:

Remember, “is this your card”, this is the number one rule. You must convince yourself that this is your card. being paranoid, scared, or nervous is a perfect way to be arrested and alert an officer or employee of a store. you must appear as the common client, just as if you were going to buy something legitimate. is now 2009, and the days of evictions working for weeks without a problem are not that common. banks are becoming safer and pushing new methods of fraud tracing all the time.

Security, theft,
when you go out to shop, the card can go two ways. you can succeed or fail. if you succeed you will probably be out of the store without handcuffs and some shit-free hand. if you fail, you may have a fall, call authentication, or maybe in the back of the police car.

1. Keep security in yourself:
Personal safety is the most important thing about the pull of these operations. be yourself, calm voice, do not even say the word stole / steal / stolen/jacked/cut at the store. you never know who is listening to you! to park away from the store, Walmart has cameras outside and can see your card. you may think that you’re gone, but if the bank goes after the FBI will see you damn sure that feed from the camera.

2. Discussion:
do not be afraid to talk to employees about the products, or anything! if you are too shy, then maybe you should work on taking him out, being friendly with the employee before the grand theft makes a huge difference. if you choose an older woman, have a stupid question out there such as “How has your day been” or “have been busy?”. maybe a young guy, “I went to a party last night and porrado”. look stupid? well, I’ll tell you firsthand, it is not, it works.

3 Behavior

Do not ask questions about things you do not wanna know.

Do not keep looking back. keep your head straight, do not laugh for no reason, and most importantly, do not look directly into a camera. a cell phone can be handy or maybe you can take a look at your product before it arrives.

b. the “theft”
this is the most important part of carding, theft. this is where it goes down. if you have to deliver the card, go for it. as well as the clerk swipes pull the hand out trick. put your hand over the registration act like you want the card back and most of the time they give it back. if not, then ask. you want, you need, you need the card back.

his impressions are there, so you better get it. if you pass me, a good trick is to steal it and put it out ASAP. not quick to where you’re going almost 400 mph, but you get the picture. that makes the employee feel free to ask to see the card, compare signatures, whatever. all mind games here.

c. the “answer”
you can get many results after the theft, here we go.

– Approved
you did it, a sign that electronic screen or receipt and you’re on your way. get out and get out of there.

– Reused
your cards are fucked. nor was it too high or perhaps a pickup. Never an official suspects a stolen card, so I do not know what to suggest. delivered a second card or if you do not have one, ask where is an atm and say you will be back and just hang out.
s uncles and he told you to buy it, perhaps?

4. “Where to go”
Security is a big problem. I will not tell you all to stay away from malls because I shop there, but never return once you’ve done it, although people walking, most often they are looking for lifters Store. they have no reason to suspect that unless you’re knocking out all the stores there and a lot of people. anyone with experience in-store knows about the last 4 digits of the card. some POS terminals to the employee type them in if they do not match is usually ok.

tell them that the bank is sending you a new card and you’re sorry. you assumed you can still use it. Radio Shack, Circuit City, the best theme, hot buy, Office Depot (some), making the last four. do not go there unless you spent money on matching plastic. are good places to hit stores within a square where there is basically no security beyond LE patrolling the area which is usually good. Gas stations are easy but can kill the bins in some cases.
Paying at the pump is a bad idea. I only recommend it if you were fucking broke and needed gas for more than carding. no fucking gas anywhere with cameras. The next thing you know is that you carded a new computer only to have busted a $ 20 gas.

2 Selection BIN

So you’re trying to do their best in-store, you get what you think is shitty dumps, or just starting ..
For whatever your reason for reading this, your instore all starts with you. Some will be very sad when they hear that there is no magic way to find a big box, and when you find those big boxes chances are the offer is limited and you have to go for new. The only way to maintain their high rate of success is to do a lot of research for the bank in which you are looking to buy boxes.

1. Find Local Bins

Okay, so this is where a lot of people are confused. It is necessary to use a bin location in most cases to succeed. You see all banks have methods of fraud detection to keep their users safe. Some are more sophisticated than others, especially banks in general are looking for spending patterns and location. What I mean is if the owner of the deposit, only uses the card there in Kentucky, and you try to use it in New York, this will raise a big flag to the bank. So we have to find boxes which are local to our area which will work.

Now you’re saying, ok so how do I do that? Here are some great methods:

A. Look in your wallet! This is great because you know exactly how your dump will perform. If you can go buy a lappy 4K without any problem, it is possible that this bin will run the same! But sometimes not, and I’ll go into more detail much later about it.B. Search for a list of local banks. Google is your friend even while searching for storing boxes! Try this in Google “Credit Cooperatives Kentucky” I bet you’ll find a page with a list of more local credit unions in your state, and an interesting link there! Now, take your list of bin [available in this forum] and find the numbers that bin corresponds to their local credit unions. Make a list of this and save it. Would use it later!

C. Old CVV or DC! Ok so I think a lot of people do not know this, a number BIN not only tells you what database it belongs to but where it is located. So if bin 414705 is owned by a person in New York, then overall people that bin is located there as well! So go find some old cc, or buy new and search boxes as you can find from your state. Add to your list, make sure to include the name of the bank, and not just the BIN number

2. Research!

Now that you’ve made this list hudge boxes you sure are local to you, because you followed T. tips User123 Now the fun part! You should research each bin extensively, I want you to go to websites and find out as much as you can about the boxes. Here are some things you want to search for: A. Credit Limits Very High! Banks that offer huge limits, will give you better success. This is because, with a limit of 100K, 2K at a single blow is not very

B. Credit Unions, while their boxes are mostly hard to find, have less security!

C. Look for banks that offer interest Very low / no interest and other rewards for spending money. If a user chooses a bank interest low / no interest and other rewards they will probably choose this bank because they are actually going to be using the card. The more activity on the card the less likely the card will be checked, as I said earlier, banks seek patterns.

One thing that will cause a decline or CFA is the cardholder’s card is not used for one year and is suddenly trying to spend 2K. This is not the standard of ordinary users and will cause a red flag. So to summarize, boxes which have more activity, work best.

You can find a lot of it out there just to visit the website, or if you are really in trouble and a bank looks promising but does not post information, call them! They will be more than happy to tell you all about them, use common sense, and do not ask stupid questions. Be sure to play the role of a client unless you want to hang out.

3. Tips

A. So you had a dump from the 10 you bought the same bin run great, but the rest sucked. Look at the numbers, try to buy only what bin expires the same year as that worked, so it expired in 2010, trying to get some of the same. Look at the number 7 if 7/1 is 4325679 and none of the others that have sucked the number 7, buy the ones that do.

B. Stay away from Federal Credit Unions, in my experience, they suck.

C. All bins can run differently, some that you should use for a big hit. And that’s all you have. Some if you buy a few small things, and then do a big blow will work just fine. Some of you will buy something small and their dead. You should try it, once you find dumpsters looking promising, if not they working how you think they should try buying methods differently.

Most deposits D. will only work for a blow BIG!

E. Time of year affects dumps, big spending during the holidays, dumps amazing work. This is because card users are active, and the banks expect that users are spending.

Providers F. with new bases are better, which means that the cards are more active lately.

G. Banks Small almost always work better than the big banks, cardholders means fewer chances of getting active cards are better

3 Digit POS – Code List

00 Approved authorization/transaction
01 Call
02 Refer to the card issuer
03 code division Invalid
04 Collection
05 Do not honor
06 Another error
08 Approved honor with ID
10 standard calling
11 Approved VIP approval
12 Transaction Type Invalid
13 Bad amount
14 number of invalid credit card
15 fraud called Standard Low
16 Mean Standard call fraud
17 fraud called high standard
18 Standard service fraud call unavailable
19 Re-enter transaction
20 Low Credit fraud floor
21 Credit Fraud Middle ground
22 Credit fraud floor high
23 Credit Fraud ground service unavailable
24 No Approved Validated
25 None Verified Approved
26 No pre-approved, outstanding
27 No reason to refuse Decline Cust.
28 received and stored None Approved
29 No Auth provided approved
30 invalid data field
31 applications received No Approved
Alert Approved None 32 BIN
33 card has expired
34 Approved Approved None Partial
Fix Error 35 Value Zero
36 Bad Auth Error Fix full amount
37 Invalid Secure Payment Data Error Fix
38 Merchant not MC SecureCode Enabled Call Decline
40 requested function is not supported
41 lost / stolen
43 card stolen
50 Positive ID
52 Processor decline
56 Restraint
58 transaction type is not allowed
59 AVS Soft
60 Not honoring fraud Low
Not honoring 61 Middle fraud
Not honoring 62 high fraud
63 Not honoring service unavailable Fraud
64 CVV2 failure
65 Security Code Invalid
66 Another error
68 number of invalid credit card
69 card does not support the method of payment
71 No account
72 Invalid code institution
73 unauthorized user
74 invalid cards expired
75 Bad amount
77 Bad amount
78 Missing data companion
79 Invalid Merchant
80 invalid methods of payment for the division
Low fraud 81 Call
82 Middle fraud call
Call 83 high fraud
84 Fraud call service unavailable
85 Doubling the number of order
86 Auth down, recycle auth.
87 currency invalid
Invalid card 88 P-3
89 floor Credit
Low fraud 91 Approved
Medium fraud 92 Approved
93 Approved high fraud
Fraud service unavailable 94 Approved
Fix Error 95 Invalid Data Type
Registry Fix 96 Invalid Sequence Error
97 Percentages do not total 100 Error Fix
98 Issuer unavailable
99 No response from host
Payments A1 total error does not correct Order
A2 Order Fix Bad Mistake number
A3 closed FPO wait Error
A4 FPO Call not allowed error
A5 Value Auth Error Fix wrong
A6 Fix error Illegal Action
A8 Invalid Start Date Error Fix
A9 Edition Fix invalid error number
B1 Error Fix Invalid Transaction Type
Not in Decline B5 Fix file
B7 Decline Cust fraud.
B8 Bad Debt Decline Cust.
B9 In Decline Cust Negative File.
C1 Cust Decline Invalid Issuer.
C2 Decline Fix Invalid Response Code
C3 Pin excessive Try Decline Cust.
C4 During Limit Decline Cust.
C5 During Cust Freq Limit Decline.
C6 During Sav Decline Cust limit.
C7 Over Sav Decline Cust Freq.
C8 Over Credit Limit Decline Cust.
C9 on credit Decline Cust Freq.
D1 To Fix invalid credit Decline
D2 Fix invalid for Decline Debit
D3 Rev Exceed Withdrawal Decline Cust.
D4 A Limit Purchases Decline Cust.
D5 In Decline Cust Negative File.
D6 Fix Decline Changed Field
Insufficient funds D7 Decline Cust.
D8 encrypted data Fix Bad Decline
D9 Fix Decline Altered Data
Fix Decline E3 Invalid Prefix
E4 Decline Fix invalid Institution
E5 Decline Fix invalid Holder
E6 BIN Fix Decline Block
No stored E7 Approved
E8 Invalid Routing Transit Number Error Fix
E9 Unknown Error Fix Routing Transit Number
Error correction F1 Missing Name
F2 Fix Error Invalid Account Type
Account Closed Cust F3 error.
F4 No Account / Unable to locate Error Fix
F5 Error Cust Account holder deceased.
F6 Error Cust deceased beneficiary.
Cust Account F7 Error frozen.
Customer F8 Opt-Out Cust error.
F9 error ACH Cust non-participant.
G1 no error note Pre-Fix
G2 Fix address error
G3 Fix Error Invalid Account Number
G4 Authorization Revoked by Consumer Cust error.
Customer Advises Not Authorized G5 Cust error.
G6 invalid CECP Action Fix Error Code
G7 Account Error Fix Invalid Format
G8 Bad Account Number Error Fix data
G9 no decline Capture N / A
In the H1 function decline credit N / A
H2, not function decline Debit N / A
Rev H3 Exceed Withdrawal Decline Cust.
H4 Changed Field Decline N / A
H5 Terminal is not owned Decline N / A
H6 Decline Fix invalid time
H7 Fix Decline Invalid Data
H8 Invalid Terminal Decline Fix Number
H9 Decline Fix invalid PIN
No Decline J1 Fix manual key
J2 unsigned Fix in Decline
Try J3 Pin excessive Decline Cust.
J4 does not Fix Decline DDA
J5 Not Fix SAV Decline
J6 Decline Cust excess DDA.
J7 Excess DDA Decline Cust FREQ.
J8 Decline Cust excess SAV.
J9 Excess SAV Decline Cust FREQ.
K1 Decline Cust excess cards.
K2 Excess Customer Card Decline Freq.
K3 Futures Decline Reserved N / A
K4 Decline Closing Reserved N / A
K5 Decline Cust numb.
K6 Decline Cust NSF.
K7 Future RD Six Decline N / A
K8 Future RD Seven Decline N / A
K9 Transaction Code Fix Decline Conflict
L1 Wait Decline In Progress
Forward error process L2 is not available
L3 Fix invalid error Expiration
L4 Fix invalid errors effectively
Fix Decline L5 Invalid Issuer
L6 Tran not allowed to Decline Cust cardholder.
L7 Unable to determine network call routing error
L8 call system fault error
L9 database called Error Error

4 Responses to declines smart card.

Intelligent answers to falls1. Pleasure

“This happened to me once before I can be about my limit for the day, well that gives me a back (right stick your hand out to pressure them psychologically to return it) and try a this “(get the card back)” well I think my wife/husband/girlfriend/boyfriend/friends monkeys uncles cousin has it. Allow five minutes for this one ill be back.

2. Logical

“I had the same problem earlier and when I called they said it has something to do with the letters they sent out when I got me. I do not have another, but said it depended on the type of terminal, the retailer uses .. bad .. just wait until I get the new card and return later (breathing .. “god damn fucking piece of shit HELL”) (smile and leave)3. Angry

“You got to be kidding me! After all the problems I’ve been through cards with people convicted of credit and now this again! Just give me the damn plate back I’m going to cancel the damn thing and then ill be back dammit ( sound angry and drug use a lot) ”

4. Paranoid and bipolar

“OH NO! Someone is using my card! WHAT OH MY GOD I will do! GIMME BACK THAT is probably one of your employees ANYWAY! OH NO OH NO OH NO I SAW A SHOW ON CNN ABOUT THIS KIND OF THING MY CREDIT IS GOING to be ruined!


“Son of a bitch. How dare you say my card has to be checked I know there? S FUCKING sufficient credit card on GOD DAMN IM A PIECE doctor you impotent dog shit. I’ll have you work for this pre-pubescent tiny insignificant FUCK! GIMME THAT GOD DAMNED CARD before I shove it up to your ass! something is ALWAYS … ALWAYS … if not the Porsche launch a stick of his Mercedes leaking oil .. . was his wife not FUCKING BOY POOL his wife fucking BROTHER MY GOD DAMNED WORTHLESS! Fuck … Just give me THAT CARD BACK AND eat a dick … SHIT!!

6. Honest

“Well, that would probably be the credit card company saying that the card is stolen bro.  I’m surprised it’s lasted so long. haha call them and see what they say. Tell them left or some shit. but the person who owns this card is up shit creek without a raft to float on if you know what I mean. haha Well, I guess ill be back when I get another. oh no .. I do not want him back just keep that dog leave it for some dumbass to find and try to use it. he will not be a surprised boy.

5 Carding in Store


So you’re interested in trying out in-store carding? Instore carding is one of the fastest ways to get money. But you have to keep your head
straight for it. As you should in each operation you go out to do. This tutorial will tell you the pros and cons of in-store carding. Feel free to
distribute this as much as you want.

For beginners:

You’re obviously reading this because you want A. Wondering how to instore card or B. Want to see if you can find anything you are not aware of.
For people who chose A. You must have at least some prior knowledge of credit cards before trying in storing them. If you do not that’s ok too, just keep
reading the tutorial, and at the end of it, you should be fine. The most important thing about instore carding is how you * Take * part of your identity
* Playing you like. If you are going into a store looking out with $ 3-5k worth of electronics dressed in your normal clothing and being nervous,
think again. You need to dress and act like a person who looks like they could buy these items any day of the week. The first time that you are going
to be nervous of course, it’s natural to be nervous the first few times. But with time and past experiences to look back, it only gets easier as you go

Dressing the part:

This should come naturally to most people out there. To buy something expensive that you need to make it look like you can buy these items along with acting
as you can (below). For your first operation, I suggest you should include entering any of the below clothing stores and buying a reasonable amount of quality clothes. I can not emphasize enough how quality plays a role in dressing up. Buy a sweater in Walmart and a sweater in banana republic could determine the difference between going out with your goods or running out of the store. Along with clothing, you may want to buy some jewelry or very

Watch high price. If a box is suspicious that something is going on, seeing some classy jewelry or a watch can also help reduce suspicion. Clothing stores are usually never uptight with purchases of clothing is why I suggest going there first to get some quality clothes. You can be
Dress as you want in there and it will not matter. When you buy new clothes, put them on in a bathroom and then continue their activities at a larger base price.


Acting the part:

This area will come hard for some but easier for others. Prepare yourself before going with the things you could say. If you are going into a store to
buy smaller items ($ 800 and below), this is usually not difficult to accomplish. But for larger items, you should act as if you can afford these items at any
time of day. Acting stuck in a sense can do this. Other than that, dressing the part is another area that helps you present as a
person of wealth.


Before you go out there and start instoring you will need the following items.

Reader/card writer – You’re going to have to (in most cases) need a card reader/card writer to write new dumps on your cards. Especially if you want to re-encode
their cards and leave. The only case where you do not need it is if you were buying plastic from a vendor who offers to encode the deposits for you. To
a reader/writer I recommend the MSR-206. It is the most popular encoder out there. You can buy them from
Price: $ 200 $ 640

Computer / Laptop (Preferred) – To be able to encode their deposits (later) first you need a computer to connect your card encoder up. Using a desktop
is good, but if you get into any trouble with their garbage dumps that will happen, you will have no way to re-encode your plastic. You will have to drive
home and re-encode there. But if you have a laptop, you can bring your MSR with you and just plug it and re-encode it while you are in your car. Doing this
will save you gas and time. Price: U.S. $ 600 to $ 2400

Power Inverter – This is a very useful tool that you are going to need for this and you will probably find yourself using all kinds of other things. The
MSR requires a power source for purchase or design thereof. If your laptop battery gets low as well which sometimes happens just hook it apart. I
I found a very good one at BestBuy for $ 80. It covers up to 800 watts (400 watts each plug). Price: $ 80

Plastic – I saw all sorts of ways to obtain plastic. Stealing others and those to buy them from a supplier. You do not want to steal anyone’s credit cards and start using those. And you do not want to re-encode your own credit cards. I’m sure it makes sense to do it, but over time, if you start using your own credit card, credit card companies are going to see the name being used and will surely contact you about these occurrences. The best bet is to buy plastic from a supplier. Think about that too. When buying plastic, get at least 2 cards with the same name as its novelty. It will save money on new novelties and give you a greater chance to get out with your merchandise.

Dumps – are the most important item in this entire operation. What would you do without dumps? Nothing that’s what. Now, depending on what you’re thinking of going out for your first op will determine how much you will need to spend in landfills. I would not worry about spending now. So as your op is over you will see that you have done well their money back from this.

Portfolio – Some people may think that putting plastic and novelty in your own wallet is not a bad idea. But the truth is that it is probably one of the major problems that could arise if anything was to happen. Keeping your false information and separating your real information is a necessity. If you have any personal information to contact you when carding I would suggest dropping it off in your car.

Optional items –

Fake ID – highly recommended, but is not always necessary. Most of the time boxes for large purchases will ask for an ID that corresponds to plastic. There are many providers out there who provide a novelty service that will meet your needs. Getting a state that is semi-close to you is ideal in this situation.

Anonymous Phone – This is optional to have, I used a dumps seller who deposits checks before shipping so that all are valid. Deposits its working 8/10 times on average. So if a card does not work, I simply hand them another card with an excuse of why the card was not working. If you are
passing through any provider you should buy a Tracfone and find a dealer who will phone verify their deposits before you go into a store. When using a phone merchant there are two forms of authorization card. Some people think that charging $ 1 or $ 1.50 on the card will not kill the card as many companies use a rate of $ 1 or $ 1.50 as a pre-authorization to check and see if the card is valid. Others prefer charging a random

higher amount to make it look like a legal purchase. Anyway, it’s up to you how you would want to check it.

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