FULL & DETAILED DUMPS LESSON
FULL & DETAILED DUMPS LESSON
INTRODUCTION TO DUMPS
So, I’ve decided to take my time and actually contribute to something I might care about in the future and ended up writing an in-store carding tutorial for one of my friends. Since I’ve already started I decided to finish it and post it here. Not looking for any reward, just wanted to share what I have written. DUMPS
This tutorial is just to start you off with in-store carding, most basics, and a few tips. Before we start, I’d like to analyze carding terms I will use throughout this tutorial.
Dumps are tracks 1 & 2 or only track2, no address, no name, no nothing. Just 2 lines of numbers/signs. Here’s an example of what you will get when you buy a dump from a vendor:
Everything before the “;” is track1, so:
T1: %B426429XXX5504545^DOANE/DARREN^1107101000000000000000000000000000008690110 00
Plastic refers to the fake cards that many plastic vendors make to match your dump, meaning they will emboss your dump’s numbers as well as the desired name you want onto a blank (not-embossed card). You’d be surprised at the quality of plastics, most cashiers can’t differentiate a fake from a real one (unless you have really low-quality plastic or the cashier is deep into this).
3. 101/201 dumps
What is the difference between 101 and 201 dumps? Well, it’s very simple: 101 is swipe only and 201 is with a chip.
Now you’re going to ask: But how am I going to pass a 201 chipped card without knowing the pin? Well, there are places for that, especially POS machines that swipe 201’s (meaning they don’t insert them). You will have to find spots on your own.
Alright, now that we’ve learned the different terms I will use throughout the guide, here starts the interesting stuff.
There are a lot of ways to do instore carding but basically, it comes out to this:
I- Hitting it randomly.
– Insider carding.
Hitting it random: This means you have GOOD quality bank plastic that should include this minimum: good holo, UV marks, tipping, matching numbers. Where I’m located sig stripes don’t matter because people are a bit late on this. You will be going into any store and hitting it.
Insider Carding: This is the safest way to go. You will need a connection working inside a store that will let you pass cards. So matching plastic is not a must here and usually, you can get away with a lot and not look suspicious at all. I suggest you do this to get your funds up to buy machinery for random hitting (or affording strikers).
POS Types and why you should read this.
There are many POS systems and a lot of them are different from each other. You will need to know the ones that are easy to swipe and the ones that are slightly harder.
Some POS systems will ask to enter the 4 last digits of the card number, so matching numbers is a must for these. Even with an insider, he must enter the matching numbers or else payment won’t go through (you can write them on a piece of paper and let him enter those digits dough).
Other POSs’ will ask to enter the cvv2 (3 security digits on the back or 4 for Amex) before even swiping the card. Keep in mind that dumps bought on the internet don’t contain the cvv because it is encrypted in Track2 and very hard to decrypt (different algorithm for every bank). So if you want cvv2 matching, you will need to skim the dumps and check yourself and note them. Usually, big stores have this, for example, The Brick, Future Shop, Best Buy, etc…
There also are POS systems that won’t let you insert 201 (chipped) cards. These POSs are good to keep in your book because sometimes, the bins or country you want will be out of 101s and you’ll get stuck with 201s and you can hit them with these POSs. So they swipe the chipped card, no inserting nor pin required. A good example is Wal-Mart or Blockbuster, only the ones who have a black pad as a POS with a screen for signature capturing (they have an insert slot but they don’t use it).
How to get dumps?
Getting dumps isn’t really *that* hard. There are 3 ways to get dumps:
1. Hacking: Pretty simple, you hack POS systems for dumps with either malware or a logging system. This is for advanced hackers because you will have to code the malware and test it on a POS you will buy yourself. Not experienced in this, can’t tell you much.
2. Skimming: There is online and offline skimming. You can use pagers and mini-readers too. It would be wiser to invest a bit more and get d+p with an offline.
3. Buying: Many vendors sell dumps online, but you will need to find good forums (a forum with Russians is always good). Don’t trust people who post ads on google (google their e-mail or ad), use escrow when possible on forums. Stay safe, don’t get ripped, and use LR to buy 2 test dumps. If the guy says 10 minimum then make sure he is legit before doing a transaction (and good vendors usually accept escrow and sell test dumps).
Many people have fuzzy perceptions about BINs. Bins are the first 6 digits of any dump. It represents the financial institution it is from as well as the location of this specific branch and the type of card the dump is.
Usually, people have bin lists they personally craft (you should too) to find the best ones. Special bins and hard to find bins are sought after because they usually have special characteristics like these:
– They die slower, so when a base is almost dead, these are still approved.
– They are not region-locked.
– They have high limits
There are 2 ways of buying dumps using bins:
1. Selective Bins:
Meaning you will ask dump sellers for specific bins that you are after and buy them. One major flaw I have discovered (where I live) is that when I buy 10 pieces of the same BIN and use 3-4, the rest of them all become HOLD-CALL. I don’t really know when that seems to happen, but maybe it’s because they disable that bin in your area or something.
2. Random Bins:
Usually not recommended because vendors give you the shittiest bins. But when you’re buying big amounts, it’s good to mix it up, you find new bins that are good for you.
What to do with dumps? Equipment needed?
After you have your dumps, you can encode them on bank-quality plastics to use them.
You will use an MSR encoder (reader/writer) to encode the tracks 1 & 2 (3 is never used on a cc) on the card. Don’t ask me how to use it, when you will open the box you will know how to use it. I’m serious, retarded people can figure it out.
Ok, about MSRs too: THEY ARE ALL THE SAME, EVEN THE CHINESE ONES. If they work and you didn’t get scammed, then any model is good. I myself have owned 206, 905, and the 605 and I use the 605 all the time despite how popular the old 206 is.
Other equipments that is a good investment are these:
Embosser + Tipper Set: This is a worthwhile investment because non-embossed blank plastics cost 10-15$ in bulk and embossed are up to 40$ a piece if individually bought. They are very easy to operate, don’t worry. Don’t need to be a genius to use them.
Card Printer + Holos: This is usually for people who have a big operation or want to sell blanks/embossed plastics. I have never owned one because it’s too much machinery and it’s very expensive (2.5 grans upwards if you want a decent one). Going with blanks is better for me.
Pagers (mini123 etc…): These are good because if you know anyone who works in a fancy restaurant where they pass your card in the back, you can give him a pager that records up to 2000 dumps (like you’ll ever get that in a day) and swipes it there before swiping it on the POS and even noting down the cvv2 in the back for better hits.
How to properly hit a store
Hitting stores is pretty easy, but it’s a pain in the ass if you have just started or you’re nervous or shy because you will have to act like you are the cardholder. Don’t dress up like a thug or a kid, wear classic clothing, no matter how gay you think it is (if you already wear classic, then sorry I offended you).
*Always know what you are getting before entering, make out a scenario and plan it wisely.
Another important part is finding the stupidest or newest cashier. Some cashiers will look at your card and verify it and some even call the manager to come to check it. Some jewelry shops even call the toll-free bank’s number on the back of the card to verify its legitimacy. To find the youngest/ugliest/calmest girl or the most fucked-up/black/stoner guy because they usually are too naive or don’t give a fuck.
F*CK IT GOT DECLINED/HOLD-CALL
Don’t worry, plenty of people have it happen randomly to them.
Decline: it means something is wrong with the card, but not exactly stolen, so they don’t know what’s wrong with it but it’s declined. Just tell them you’ll call the bank and walk away. No one will chase you lol.
HOLD-CALL: Now this is where it gets shakier, this means the cashier has to hold the card and call the bank. What I usually do is tell them ill call the bank later because I’m in a rush but keep the card. This means something is definitely wrong with your card.
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